If you have been sewing for a while you probably have a stash of favorite books you use to refer sometimes for a sewing project. Sarge recently brought two of hers from Sandra Betzina to the sewing retreat last month to share with me. Today, I’d like to share a book by Marta Alto, Susan Neal, and Pati Palmer named Jackets for Real People, which is a Palmer/Pletsch Publication. Those of us lucky enough to have this know what a treasure it is. You may be familiar with these instructors for their fitting process using the pattern and a little tape, in this review, I will refer to it as ‘PP’. You cut out the pattern, add tape near the seam allowance to hold the pins in, pin it then while wearing the paper discover, and make the necessary fitting alterations. I have used this method with some level of success, and most recently opened up a tried and true dress pattern that I used this method on, and thought I could make a few additional alterations. That is my latest project. Meanwhile I have interest in making another blazer so I plucked this book off my shelf. In flipping through, I am again reminded of the wonderful resource the book is. Even though this book is targeting jackets, you don’t need to be familiar with the PP method, because it gives the reader all the information you need to do the fitting. What I particularly like about the fitting section is that it gives real examples with pictures and information on how each was altered with a final picture of the result! Additionally, it gives construction information too! Need to know how to do a welt pocket, with 5 pages of instruction on just that with some diagrams, I am pretty confident I could do this. They also give tips on how to make sure the welts and pockets are aligned, and what to do if your dart intersects with the welts. Information is also plentiful on how to handle lining and even how to make a lining pattern if your pattern was lacking. My favorite though, is the interfacing diagrams, they let me know, which type of interfacing goes on each piece of a jacket pattern and where. For my next blazer, I wanted to try a new technique of using tape on the roll line. My last blazer (see show and tell 2025) was chosen without a lapel for that very reason, I was looking to avoid the roll line. Well that, and I’d be wearing it in the summer. You see, I have an unfinished blazer made with the most itchy of wools that I was gifted some time ago, I thought I’d use it to make a wearable muslin (maybe!). With the alterations I made, I needed to check the fit, so I decided I’d use that fabric. I used multiple colors for the lining because I was using what I had. I didn’t really like the way the lapels laid down, and felt it needed topstitching all around it. I’d have to check to see if I did any understitching, I’m sure that should have fixed that problem. Since I sew, and have so many interests in sewing like quilting, crafting, bra making and other garments, I never seem to get to the perfect result I am looking for. That’s ok! I will keep trying, I will make mistakes, and I will forget how to attach the lining to the fashion sleeve hem. I will however, keep my book handy because it really does seem to have all the tricks (including that sleeve hem) I would need to have a wearable product. As for that itchy blazer, I am still looking to take it a bit apart to finish the front bottom inside facing to lining bit. Wish me sewing magic!
Thank you for reading!
Bonny
PS! There is a ASG event with Pati Palmer! Check out the ASG.org website for more information.
Dreams on Paper and Palmer/Pletsch Tissue-Fitting Method Updated
