I was asked to expand on my repair of a priestly garment that appeared in the ASG Notions a few months back.  I have included the text submitted as well as more photos explaining or detailing my process.

"I was asked by our priest to reattach a clasp to a cope.  However, when I received the garment all the wefts had disappeared in the area where the clasp was to go, and the surrounding material had little to no strength to secure the clasp.  Having the advantage of a textile conservator in the family (my daughter- Kayla Silvia Winokurzew) she presented me with two options for repair – recreating the weave by inserting new wefts or putting nylon netting (tuille) over the area and stitching around the area to give it more strength.  As this condition existed in the upper front portion of both sides of the garment and around the neckline area, I opted for the tuille and placed a self-constructed 1” bias tape to cover the tuille, so that the wearer would not be irritated by the slight roughness of the tuille.  The completion of this task involved a lot of hand sewing as there was no way that I was going to open the garment at the many seams that existed due to the fringe and other embellishments that adorned the garment.  As it was, I had to open the entire neckline and a good 6” on the front to attach the tuille and the bias tape.  Additional interfacing was also sown into the cope under the lining where the clasps were to be attached as there was previously only one thin layer of muslin.  The garment itself weighed a good 20 pounds so there was a lot of weight being carried by the two clasps.  While working on the garment, I used a lot of clips to ensure that the multiple layers of fabric stayed in place and was grateful for the #10 needles obtained from taking Helen Haughey’s Couture Hand Stitching Virtual class last year.  Although the final result may not be museum quality restoration, I am extremely happy with the outcome, and hope that the garment will last another 50 years for use in future religious services.  I considered this project both a challenge for technique and color compatibility, (oils from years of use had darkened the fabric around the front and neck from its original true red) as well as an opportunity to visibly mend a garment and further textile sustainability."

Other things to note, finding a compatible fabric was difficult, few exist that have do not have religious symbols such as crosses or paisley prints.  A complimentary color was also had to find.  The fabric chosen was a jacquard with a little bit of spandex, which was a benefit because I was using it on  the neckline and on the front of the garment.  

I hope this satisfies interested parties.  This did take a lot of hand sewing and lots of time to complete.

The original garment as received and a peak as to what was underneath.

Securing the layers while also applying the tuille.  Fray check was applied to the one very frayed area as an extra precaution.

The tuille in place.  The tuille is folded over about 3 times, so that the bias tape will have something of strength to hold on to.

The bias tape being positioned for attachment both on the underside of the lining and on the outside of the lining.  NOTE:  the additional tuille on the underside of the really frayed area.

The finished inside of the garment with the binding attached and the original label re-secured using misty fuse.

The finished outside of the garment with the binding visible and the clasp in place.