I was asked to expand on my repair of a priestly garment that appeared in the ASG Notions a few months back.  I have included the text submitted as well as more photos explaining or detailing my process.

"I was asked by our priest to reattach a clasp to a cope.  However, when I received the garment all the wefts had disappeared in the area where the clasp was to go, and the surrounding material had little to no strength to secure the clasp.  Having the advantage of a textile conservator in the family (my daughter- Kayla Silvia Winokurzew) she presented me with two options for repair – recreating the weave by inserting new wefts or putting nylon netting (tuille) over the area and stitching around the area to give it more strength.  As this condition existed in the upper front portion of both sides of the garment and around the neckline area, I opted for the tuille and placed a self-constructed 1” bias tape to cover the tuille, so that the wearer would not be irritated by the slight roughness of the tuille.  The completion of this task involved a lot of hand sewing as there was no way that I was going to open the garment at the many seams that existed due to the fringe and other embellishments that adorned the garment.  As it was, I had to open the entire neckline and a good 6” on the front to attach the tuille and the bias tape.  Additional interfacing was also sown into the cope under the lining where the clasps were to be attached as there was previously only one thin layer of muslin.  The garment itself weighed a good 20 pounds so there was a lot of weight being carried by the two clasps.  While working on the garment, I used a lot of clips to ensure that the multiple layers of fabric stayed in place and was grateful for the #10 needles obtained from taking Helen Haughey’s Couture Hand Stitching Virtual class last year.  Although the final result may not be museum quality restoration, I am extremely happy with the outcome, and hope that the garment will last another 50 years for use in future religious services.  I considered this project both a challenge for technique and color compatibility, (oils from years of use had darkened the fabric around the front and neck from its original true red) as well as an opportunity to visibly mend a garment and further textile sustainability."

Other things to note, finding a compatible fabric was difficult, few exist that have do not have religious symbols such as crosses or paisley prints.  A complimentary color was also had to find.  The fabric chosen was a jacquard with a little bit of spandex, which was a benefit because I was using it on  the neckline and on the front of the garment.  

I hope this satisfies interested parties.  This did take a lot of hand sewing and lots of time to complete.

The original garment as received and a peak as to what was underneath.

Securing the layers while also applying the tuille.  Fray check was applied to the one very frayed area as an extra precaution.

The tuille in place.  The tuille is folded over about 3 times, so that the bias tape will have something of strength to hold on to.

The bias tape being positioned for attachment both on the underside of the lining and on the outside of the lining.  NOTE:  the additional tuille on the underside of the really frayed area.

The finished inside of the garment with the binding attached and the original label re-secured using misty fuse.

The finished outside of the garment with the binding visible and the clasp in place.

Pattern choices

Do you AO? Or Projector? Or Old school printed pattern type of person? Spoiler alert, this is not a tutorial on how to do either of the first two, the third, as in a printed pattern, sure we have a lot of choices and we are all pretty familiar with that. Printed patterns are great for having all the pieces on very thin tissue paper, but at least you know what you are getting. Well, thin paper for most of the Big 4 that is. Smaller company pattern designers may be available only as a pdf where you need to print at home or at a print shop and tape together or they may already provide the pattern on A0 size, which is something like 33 by 46 inches. 

I have been wanting to get a new style, or at least try some new to me patterns. A few weeks ago, at Joanns I had made a few pattern purchases. Later, I went online to see what the bloggers were sewing and patterns they may suggest. I came across itch-to-stitch.com. There were some patterns there that I could see making and wearing! They have an option of this AO version to download then have a printing service print it for you, no more 8x11 pages to tape. You can do like I did, and download a free pattern, they have four to choose from, 3 tops and one skirt. I chose the Uvita Top. By using the free pattern, I figured since I don’t know much about the AO printing, if it didn’t work out, at least I didn’t spend too much. I first ‘purchased’ the free pattern then downloaded it to my phone. I saved it also in my DropBox incase I need to find it another day, but I see now it does save in my 'account' so I can access it there too. Then I went to theplottedpattern.com and chose A0 Sized Printed pattern on plain paper, it was $2.40, with shipping it came out under $8 because I had ordered a few envelopes for patterns, they were 15c each. If I didn’t do that, altogether the printing and the shipping would have been $6.54. It was a very easy process and I didn’t even use a computer, I did all of this right on my phone! I took a picture of what came in the package, and how I received it. The printing company says it is 20# weight paper, it feels pretty sturdy, even better than the printer paper I have been getting lately at the big box store. There are also other options, the most expensive at $4 is the Tissue paper option, and the other is the $3 Translucent paper option, all of these options come with color or black and white printing. One thing on this is there was no sewing instructions, I am not sure if I specifically left them off since I wasn’t sure how it would work. In the plotted pattern they have two main choices, “Pattern and Instruction printing” and Custom printing. I chose the first of these. The designer though gave me both the traditional pdf to print and tape that includes the instructions. For this top, I probably won’t need instructions, although they may come in handy to understand how much of a hem the pattern contained. It was a fun little experiment and I would definitely have a pattern printed this way in the future if I am presented with the option. I haven’t made the Uvita top yet, but I hope to soon. 

Projecting is also another option. This one is even more intimidating to me, but may be an option for those who do a lot of downloading, or sewing a lot of different patterns, or if you design your own patterns using software. There are many choices in projectors depending on how far the projector will sit relative to your cutting or tracing area. The projector saves the trees by projecting the pattern right on fabric for you to cut right there and then! Some drawbacks, you need a relatively dark room so you can see the projection, and there is a little bit of a learning curve. Next time you see me, let me know if you have gone to the projector dark side! 

For now, I may stick to paper patterns and maybe give A0 another try if there is a pattern that calls my name. 

For those of us who are looking for discounted patterns, simplicity.com does have sales. They had one this weekend, and I made a few purchases. Unfortunately, after I purchased, I realized I never checked my ‘buy’ list on my phone for those patterns I wanted and was going to look for at Joanns for their next sale. Anyways, I was able to purchase them at $4.99 and 2.99. the shipping wasn’t too bad either. Well, I am off to go sew! I have been sewing a few tops, and now want to do a few blazers, but then I also need pants, and some new bras, and, and, and! 

Posted by Bonny D on March 9, 2025: completely my own opinion and unbiased post. 

Exhibit at the Albany Institute of History and Art

 I recently visited the exhibit "Enchanted Threads, The Art of Salley Mavor" at the Albany Institute of History and Art located in Albany, NY.  This exhibit has been extended to March 2, 2025.  It is worth the time and effort to view her fibre artistry.  Her work is done primarily with wool to make three dimensional images.  Some of the images and stand alone pieces include using natural materials such as acorns, stones and wood but are joined and embellished by hand stitching.  See some of her work in the attached photos.  She has illustrated a few children's books, but the images in the books do not do justice to her work.  Please take some time to visit this exceptional display. 

Cost is about $10 and parking is free in the back of the Institute.  Check the time and dates for viewing.

Stand alone display with antique glove and wee folk fairies

Close up of leaves with french knot embellishments

A representation of Sallye's life, each doll is equal to a year.

 A 3-D framed image of Halloween.

Shameless Plug

 Have you been on the https://www.asg.org lately? There is a delightful article on restoring vintage sewing machines. I particularly enjoyed reading this article. A year ago last November, I purchased a 1918 Red Eye Singer 66 treadle. It came to me needing a little love and attention, and I was able to get it sewing again! I am currently working on restoring the cabinet. I am not sure how I will fit this machine in my sewing room since it is already full of machines! Are you an old machine lover? Do tell!